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If you want to do the task right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and in fact see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.


Second, you have to get rid of copper fouling. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods.


Eliminate the brush, pipe it down again, and put it aside to dry. Rub out the cleaning rod with a paper towel. Take your spot rod, and put 3 solvent restore the bore. The last one must come out almost white. When it does, follow with a dry patch.


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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or simply a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and lumps and streaks, it's back to the J-B.


If you don't have a borescope, run a solvent spot up the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a couple of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, however if it has green or blue discolorations, back to the J-B.


Now, some general notes. Some barrels copper-foul much even worse than others. As a guideline, the more you invest on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will nasty. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do break-in treatments work? I doubt it. I've had one or 2 cases where a barrel unexpectedly started to group as I reached the end of the process, however I've had much more burglaries that made no distinction at all.


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They work, sometimes, but if you forget and leave the stuff in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but good, and because I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I'm reluctant to take the opportunity. Also, they're hell on stock surfaces. With a bolt-action, go simple on the Break-Free.


Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend upon their firearms going bang. They desire them immaculate. And spotless is a great way to go.


The steps to correctly clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field removing or total disassembly. We'll cover fundamental field stripping in this article. Due to the range of rifles, complete disassembly of the gun aren't within the scope of this article. This is the most crucial action in the whole cleansing procedure.


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, and get rid of any loose particles that may be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.


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One typical myth is that more is much better when it concerns lubrication of your gun. You want to sufficiently lubricate where required, but excessive can lead to extreme residues, which can lead to breakdowns and dealing with concerns (slippery). Lubing fabrics are an outstanding tool due to the fact that they help control the quantity of oil/lubrication being used in any offered area of your weapon.


The procedure is easy. Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Remember, keep your barrel secured or pointed down to avoid any solvent collecting near the actionsee Action 1.) Enable it to sit, and remember that removing copper can take a while.


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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit again, and repeat. If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Just let it sit again and repeat. Costs Buckley Note: There's a lot of speak about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.


What you don't want is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. Once you're pleased that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of patches that have actually been damp with a regular cleansing solvent. Run 3 or four dry spots down the bore to get rid of any remaining solvent.


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